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We ride under extreme conditions in Jamaica, poor road surface, broken tarmac, pot holes, broken glass,.You name it and I guarantee we have ridden through it. I have compiled a few pointers for cyclists to check on their bike's before a ride.

Yank on brake handles hard to check brakes, inspect inner cables, if they are rusted and corroded, insist that your bike shop replace both inner (with stainless steel cable) and outer housing ASAP. Nothing is worst than descending with no brakes!

Inspect tyres for proper inflation, cuts, cracks, wear, bulge. Broken glass does not discriminate, they cut all types of tyres. A bulge can be caused from riding into a huge crater which is now a norm on our roads since the passage of Hurricane Ivan. Do not ride with unsafe tyres, they are the only contact between your bike and the road surface. If someone is riding on threadbare tyres in the field, beware.... that's a ticking time bomb.

Gear cables are always left for granted, if left unmaintained, grudge builds up between inner cable and the outer sheath which causes mis--shifts, slow shifts. Have them cleaned and lubed frequently and replaced annually.

Moving parts such as the drive train must be inspected and cleaned and lubed.

Handlebar tape. Replace every 2-3 months, this is an area that can collect all undesirable chemicals (sweat, salt, u name it) that can attack and destroy alloy handlebars.

If you get caught riding in rain here are a few more tips...........


Step one, get all the excess water out. That means allowing the water to exit your wheels if you have deep profile rims such as the Mavic Cosmics to force the water out of special drainage holes built in the rims. Most importantly, set your bike upside down so that any stored water will drain out of your seat tube.

Step two, mitigate the damage. It may mean washing your bike and giving it a complete make over. You need to get rid of all the dirt and grime in your chain by using a degreaser on the chain such as a bicycle specific cleaner, working it on the chain, chainrings, jockey pulley wheels, and cassette and then rinsing with lots of fresh water.

If you are a notorious sweat hog, then use water and dish washing detergent on your handlebar tape. Replace every 2-3 months. We run a layer of electrical tape under the handlebar tape to prevent the dried sweat from pitting and causing potential damage to the bars. (Caution: it may smell like limburger cheese)

Next, work the brakes with your degreaser to get the brake grime and dirt off. Finally, use cleaner on your frame and work from the top down. Always clean the dirty drive train first.


Step three, remove your cycling shoes, open them up, remove insoles, pack the inside with newspaper and run a fan on them to dry. Use a leather conditioner on them if the leather after drying looks dull.

Step four, dry the drive train completely before applying lube. Use a wet lube for rainy season, a dry lube for winter. We use Pro link or IceToolz chain lube. You may have your own preference. White Lightning is a dirt magnet if you apply it to a chain that is not pristine clean.

Step five, lube the moving parts on brakes, derailleur and other moving parts, wipe off the excess. If you have sealed hubs, don't assume they won't need servicing. Mavic Kysriums have been notorious for drying up when ridden in the rain. Check pedal axles to see if they still spin easily. Speedplay pedals require attention and a special tool for servicing.

Step six, making the bike real pretty. Use a car wax on your bike, which protects as well as leaves a shiny non streaking finish. Carbon fiber stuff needs protectorant against Ultra Violet exposure if it's not painted.


  
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